Permanent makeup of lips: step by step

Before talking about permanent makeup of lips, it is important to remember the history of lip makeup in general. According to a historic literature, the usage of lipstick began in the Bronze Age – in Mesopotamia. They did it with crushed gems, but in reality it was the rubbing of lips for “redness” effect rather than doing makeup)


Women in ancient Egypt achieved purple hue for their lips with a mixture of iodine, bromine, and dried red algae. Bromine is a toxic substance, which can be the cause of many diseases. Later, this lipstick was nicknamed “the kiss of death”. At the same time pearl shade lipstick was invented, which is produced by adding a paste of fish scales.


Both Egyptians and Romans used different kinds of pastes to give a reddish hue to their lips. Romans, for example, did the lipstick on the basis of clay and cinnabar. With cinnabar lips were certainly much brighter, mainly due to an allergic reaction, as cinnabar is also extremely toxic.

The first solid lipstick was invented by a man called Al-Zahrawi.

Al-Zahrawi – was the court doctor, who was called “the father of surgery”. Apparently, the court physician could not afford for his patients to poison themselves by various toxic additives, and, since he was also a great inventor, Al-Zahrawi could not resist refining the lip paste to the form of “lipstick” we know today. It was made of a mixture of colors, various waxes and aromatized resins. The story of lipstick, of course, does not end there, but only begins to rapidly develop…


For millennia people of different nationalities painted their lips in various shades with a variety of substances, but eventually a new trend has begun, and lip permanent makeup has become a viable alternative to lipstick.


With the advent of permanent makeup and thus the opportunity to correct imperfect shape or color of the lips more and more women now use the services of PMU specialists.

Undoubtedly, the permanent makeup can be the solution not only for aesthetic issues, but also for congenital defects and lip injuries. However, the methods of correction must be chosen carefully. You must always remember that the result of permanent makeup is maintained for a long time, and the removal of unsuccessful job is an expensive and long process.


Human lips have a complex geometric shape, so working with them is always interesting. Permanent makeup of lips is a fine work, which depends on the professional experience, knowledge and intuition of an artist, as well as understanding of the facial geometry and artistic vision. With different dyes you can not only change the color of the lips, but also change their form. And choosing the right form can even solve the problem with the raising or lowering of the facial contours.

Methods of lip correction

There is a list of well-known methods of correcting lip permanent makeup.

Major changes in the lips shape:

  • Reduction of the lips;
  • Adding volume to the lips;
  • Smoothing Lip asymmetry;

 Impact of the selected color on the lip volume:

  • The use of light and dark colors on the lips (color interaction rules);
  • Getting additional volume on light and dark lips (reflections, emphasis);

Lips can be given different expression with changes applied to lips corners

  • Laughing – raised corners;
  • Whiny, sad – lowered corners.assim

For reduction of lips the contour is drawn more clearly and inside area is thickly painted over. To augment the lips, the contour is drawn broader than natural, thus capturing the skin above the upper or lower lip, depending on which lip needs to be corrected. To make permanent makeup of lips with 3D effect, you can resort to the use of highlights: on the upper lip – the area under the middle Cupid’s Bow, at the bottom – on lip bumps.


Given the face geometry

To create a beautiful lip contour and fullness of color, basic knowledge of makeup artist is not enough. Always consider the overall geometry of the face, as well as the principles of a harmonious combination of all of its forms and the pigment induction technique.

Before you begin, determine the center line that passes through the center of the nose and chin. For example, the tip of the woman’s nose “points” more to the right, and if the rotational angle of the nose is emphasized, it will have an effect on the visual perception. Your client may think that her lips are displaced.


Do not forget about mimic activity of the lips, which also affects the form. For example, the effect of wry mouth – when one side of the lips is raised and the other one is obviously omitted. If the asymmetry is emphasized, just explain it to a client and decide which part you’ll take as an example for a new form. After all, diverting attention from one flaw can bring attention to the bigger and more obvious one.


Determination of changes must be carried out in a state of physiological rest of client’s face.

Perfect lips are characterized by the same size of upper and lower lips, not too thick and not too thin. Color must be smooth, light brown.


Let us examine some challenging situations encountered in the work of an artist when applying permanent makeup of lips.

Selecting the needle

Today, manufacturers of specialized equipment provide the needles of various configurations and textures. All of them are designed to help in the work of a specialist. It is always great to use multiple different needles in your work. The ability to apply them correctly will enable an artist to minimize trauma, reduce procedure time and maximize the good results of the procedure in general.

In the next article we’ll examine the techniques of performing permanent makeup of lips, as well as basic principles for the selection of lip pigments.

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Originally translated by PMU International Magazine

Лариса Волкова

Лариса Волкова

Добро пожаловать,дорогой гость!Приглашаю к обсуждению тем. Приветствую идеи и пожелания!

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